my birthday continues -- 11.9.10

I've just left the Four Seasons Hotel where I had an hour-long massage in the Spa. It was quite lovely and relaxing. The masseuse recommended that I stretch my neck and shoulders every night because I am so tense I may begin to get headaches. The funny thing is, though I am physically tense I am emotionally relaxed so I am not sure how I can prevent this tightness in my shoulders.

The hotel is on the river about two blocks from the main building of the University. The lobby is lovely and I received the star treatment--greeted by name upon entering the spa area, given a fluffy robe and slippers. The massage itself was great, especially when she rubbed my feet! Of course I dawdled in the "changing room", spending time in the sauna, drinking tea, having a shower and blow-drying my hair (which I rarely do). Thanks for the great gift, mom! I couldn't ask for a more relaxing, luxurious experience.

With the rest of the afternoon to myself I walked over to the Jewish Quarter, per Karin's suggestion. My school straddles the border between the Quarter and the Old Town; according to my guide book the Rudolfinum is technically in the Jewish Quarter. Choosing today was in part a good idea and in part bad because it is Saturday of Rosh Hashana so of course the sites were all closed. However I was able to amble at my leisure through the narrow and desolate streets. It seems the tourist trade must be a major contributor to the economy here because one must pay to enter practically anywhere. I was therefore content to admire the architecture from the outside of these buildings and to peek through the gates of the cemetery. Additionally, my camera ran out of battery so I wouldn't have been able to visually supplement my descriptions for you, Gentle Reader.

One of the buildings I was able to enter was St Agnes' Convent. Founded by Agnes (Wenceslas I's sister) in 1234, the convent housed the order of the Poor St Clares. It is, according to my guide book, one of the first Gothic buildings in Bohemia. I was able to explore the churches and the cloister (14th century) which are a part of the complex without paying. These beautiful and enormous rooms were empty aside from the occasional memorial for St Agnes, Wenceslas I, and others. The second floor (which in Europe is referred to as the first floor-- go figure!) is an extension of the National Gallery whose main building is located in Prague Castle. The paintings highlight in my guidebook are located in the main building of the gallery; since I had seen them already I thought I'd wait for another day to check it out.

After grabbing a roll and coffee for lunch (24 K) I walked around some more and found myself in the Old Town Square. I plan on walking to the Tesco and jumping on the tram back to the dorm by the National Theater after I finish my Kozel. I'm sitting in a cafe garden, located in a courtyard off of a side street. A lovely and quiet place to think and drink.